Classic menswear is often misunderstood. There remains in many circles, the impression that classic menswear is about men standing around a pre-war automobile, in old fusty suits, carrying canes and wearing hats. As a result, it has been associated with antiquity and regarded as having no place in the world today.
I was greatly reminded of this when I attended a recent Beijing Opera performance, where the conflict between a classic expression and a sense of modernity reared its relevance again. What do Beijing Opera and classic menswear have in common?
Beijing Opera is a traditional form of of Chinese opera, and combines music, vocal performance, mime, and dance, often portraying stories echoing Chinese history. Interestingly, the stage is often rather sparse and a large element of its appeal lies in the actors/actresses’ abilities to infuse the soul of the performance through performance, with little need for props. In short, it is a product of a different time and place, an anti-thesis to modern theatre, where large stage productions often channel a sense of grandeur and occasion.
In the very same vein, classic menswear is a direct descendant of early 19th century society, where following the industrial revolution, men started to move away from the decadent decades of garish silks, stockings and jewelry, and gravitated towards the use of less delicate fabrics of wool and cotton. These are often in dark and neutral colours that reflect the ethics of hard work during the industrial revolution. It is also heavily influenced by the Age of Empire, and the lounge suit is a “civilisation” of the military uniform that dominated the 19th and early 20th century. The Italians later crafted their own spin on classic menswear in the 1930s, and created a multitude of styles (deconstructed, lightweight) to suit the Italian lifestyle. Nonetheless, the modern iteration of classic menswear continues to have its roots in the stylistic elements of the early 20th century.
While being products of a different time, both Beijing Opera as an art form and tailoring have managed to find a niche in today’s world, and in many ways, thrived. While I profess a distinct lack of knowledge on how Beijing Opera has stayed relevant while keeping its roots, here are my two cents’ worth on how classic menswear can continue to be a part of today’s world.
Classic menswear is not a pastiche of dress, nor is it a costume. Rather, it is a genre of dress, one that despite having its roots in the past, has evolved and developed into an art form that deserves the highest level of craftsmanship. In a world of technical fabrics, athleisure, street wear and “comfort”, it is worth noting that classic menswear in my view, transcends fashion and trends. For example, a man wearing beautifully cut two-piece suit made from merino wool will not look out of time, whether it is in 1967 or 2017, and the same goes for a beautiful pair of black leather oxfords.
The key for it to staying relevant is the understanding that the evolution that has taken place is at a gradual pace, slowly adapting to the demands of modern life, yet keeping the sense of decorum and heritage. The best way of understanding this evolution is to witness the massive development in how fabrics are woven, with the best example being how mills who have been in business since the 1700s, i.e. Zegna and Vitale Barberis Canonico, continue to roll out new fabrics in a variety of weaves and weights (made from pure wool) that allows a modern man to continue wearing suits, shirts and jackets in a way that caters to their lives.
The second way is the massive innovation in the ways that tailors now construct their garments. For instance, international houses like Cifonelli, Rubinacci, and even Huntsman have experimented with different ways of constructing their jackets, making them lighter in wear, yet retaining the sense of classic masculinity that men crave when visiting a tailor. Closer to home, the tailoring houses continue to innovate, both from a technical front (lighter canvassing, a more lithe shoulder attachment etc) and from a garment perspective (i.e. the development of safari jackets, mandarin collar shirts etc) that can cater to the modern life.
Both Beijing Opera and classic menswear have their roots in a different time, but continue to stay relevant today. While it might sound a little cliche, let us endeavour to keep the past alive in our pursuit for the future, and we might in the process, create something timeless and relevant for eons to come.
