When one broaches the topic of luxury menswear in Singapore, the long lines outside the flagship stores of major luxury labels often come to mind. A fashionable Singaporean man has always been imagined as a person who is tremendously in tune with the latest trends, the next big design, or simply a brand worshipper, i.e. someone who needs to have the latest belt from LV or Hermes simply because the brand is a major part of his identity.
However, in recent years, the rise of independent menswear boutiques, tailors or retailers have started to encroach into menswear luxury retail. Among the many men who have a remote interest in how they portray themselves to the world, whether at work or in private, there is a small but growing group that prefer a curated experience, one that is built on two main tenets; relationship and quality
- Relationship
Having a good relationship with the tailor, the cutter or the proprietor of an independent menswear retailer is of paramount importance. For example, why do men of the ilk above go to stores like The Armoury (Hong Kong), WJ and Co (Malaysia), or Last&Lapel (Singapore)? The simple reason is that these men identify with the proprietors of these stores, who have over time, with their generosity, kindness and a deep appreciation for good craftsmanship, created a sense of fellowship among their clients.
A relationship like this cannot be found in traditional luxury retail. Traditional retail has often been about creating brand loyalty, with a focus on what the brand stands for, for the brand’s (curated) history. Traditional luxury retail has been driven by corporations, with a strong focus on meeting design timelines, maintaining cost effectiveness and ensuring that profits meet shareholder expectations.
In short, the focus in traditional retail has never been about a sense of timeless style or the details of craftsmanship, but a focus on profits, margins and growth. On the other hand, independent menswear retailers/tailors have a strong pride for their craft, which is often mastered over decades of practice, and curated based on a deep appreciation of menswear. As a result of this, discerning men develop a relationship of mutual appreciation and understanding of the stories and craft behind menswear, and grow together sartorially.
Ultimately, mutual respect between the customer and the proprietors of these independent establishments help to create a relationship like nothing other, especially when compared to traditional menswear luxury retail.
2. Quality
A respect for the craft comes with an appreciation of quality. Quality is not about whether a piece of clothing/footwear is fashionable or trendy. Rather, it is about a belief that a big part of menswear is about being ethical, where corners are not cut and people who are involved in the production process are paid fair wages.
Ethical and transparent production processes are important because it truly allows a customer to become part of the brand through a sense of belonging and assimilation. After all, you cannot be part of something that you have a weak understanding of. The small menswear community in Singapore is also an extremely educated one. For example, many are able to discern whether a jacket is fully canvassed, whether the shoulders are attached by hand or by machine, and whether a pair of shoes is handwelted or goodyear-welted.
Together, the clientele and the proprietors of these independent retailers/tailors help to create a greater understanding of how garments should be made up and tailored, or how shoes should be made (ethically).
Above all, what makes the rise of independent menswear retailers so exciting is that it goes against almost everything that a traditional luxury retail model holds dear, and does not solely focus on maximising profits for growth’s sake. Rather, it is about organic growth by educating and building relationships with customers, and growing together with them.
There are truly many good tailors and passionate proprietors of classic, high quality menswear around on our sunny island. All we need is a little more curiosity, a little more humility, and seek them out, build the relationship to keep the ethical and honest craft of classic menswear alive.
